8 top tips for travelling with a baby to Malawi

I recently took my 7 month old daughter to Malawi for a couple of weeks, and since our return, I've had a few people ask me how we coped with such a young baby on the plane, in the heat, and with all sorts of creepy crawlies etc out to do her harm.


So here is my list of 8 top tips for travelling with a young child to Africa!


1. Be prepared
I've borrowed the scout motto for this one. The most important weapon in our arsenal was to make sure we had enough of everything we thought we might need available in hand luggage. Note you can take baby food, bottles of water etc through security as long as you taste it in front of the officials. We loaded up with a few all-in-one romper suits, a handful of disposable nappies (evil I know, but try carrying around 6 used reusables for 27 hours!) and some simple (non-noisy) toys to entertain her. Add to that a few bibs, some baby paracetamol and some rice cakes, and we were pretty much sorted for the long flight.

2. Ask and ye shall receive
It continued to amaze me over the course of our trip how willing people were to help us stay comfortable with the baby. So this tip is to remind you to ask for things to make your journey easier. Our first request was that we have a sky cot (bassinet) for the baby. As there are only a select few of these available on each plane put a request in early with the airline and then reiterate at the check-in desk. Note that getting a bassinet also puts you in the front 'leg room' seats - so a double win! 

3. Plan for the time zone change
It sounds obvious, but if you're going to get jetlag, it'll be because you haven't planned for the time zone change. We had to force ourselves to go to sleep during the middle leg of our journey (the 5 hours wait in a freezing cold Addis Ababa airport!), and we did away with the usual baby sleeping arrangements, allowing Tio to go to sleep on one of us. It was great of course, as she was like a little hot water bottle!

4. Take plenty of changes of clothes

Babies get dirty. Very dirty. So make sure you take plenty of changes of clothes for your little one - I think we went through five sleep suits over the 27 hour travelling period through a mixture of vomit, food, and other nefarious substances. And don't forget a plastic bag to put it all in!

5. Travel cot and baby carrierJust to make your life easier. We used a Baby Bjorn front carrier which left whoever was carrying the baby with both hands free for passports, carrying hand luggage and duty-free shopping. The travel cot also worked really well, as it had an enclosed fly/mosquito net, so we were certain she wasn't going to get bitten while sleeping in Malawi!

6. Sun cream, hat, onesy, insect repellent

Absolute no-brainer, but had to mention it. When we took Tio swimming we coated her in sun cream, then put her onesy on, then put a hat on her. She was very tolerant considering the hassle, but she loved her dips in Lake Malawi while we were down at Sambani Lodge. Also, baby insect repellent is really important, we used it mainly while we were in Mzuzu, staying at Monkey Puzzle Lodge (on the Nkhata Bay road), and she didn't seem to mind it too much (I think she was too interested in eating the lovely bananas!)

7. There is a time and a place for jars of baby food

On the plane, an absolute godsend! The airhostess very kindly warmed up the meal, and security let us through as we tasted it in front of them. She actually quite enjoyed the jar (we normally mash up what we're having for dinner), and it lasted a couple of meals. We also knew what she was getting, as airline food tends to be quite sugary/salty.

8. Finally, don't let your baby lick your flip-flop....
We had been so careful to keep Tione out of trouble for the entire trip, until it came to the day before we left. Blame it on the heat, or blame it on how comfortable we felt with her ability to adapt Malawi, we were letting her play on a mat on the floor and in a more adventurous move than she had tried previously, she managed to reach across the mat, and grab my wife's flip-flop, then it went the way of all things do when babies get their hands on them - straight into the mouth. There was a moment of realisation between us, and then a slow motion 'NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO' as we dived to snatch it out of her hands. Alas, the damage had already been done, and for the next couple of weeks she had a stinking cold. Still, it could have been worse, can you imagine what a flip-flop can pick up in Africa...!

Are you travelling with a baby, have you got some tips of your own. I'd love to hear your thoughts!!

Karonga story: The recent earthquakes in Malawi

This post takes a more serious look at some of the real life situations of local Malawians living in the aftermath of the recent earthquakes in the Northern region of Malawi.

Karonga seems to have borne the brunt of the damage when the earthquakes hit the region last year, and although international aid was quick to arrive, some of the poorer villages are still in a bad way. One of these villages, Mpata, is located about 15km from Karonga Boma, and I recently spent a day there, talking to the inhabitants about their experiences since the natural disaster struck.

Kenja is the village matriarch, a wizened lady 90 years old (roughly, as no-one counted when she was younger), her mouth has retained only a smattering of teeth, testimony to the high sugar diet enjoyed by many poor Malawians, yet her smiling eyes twinkle with happiness, belying her years. She is very matter of fact about the quakes "when the earthquakes began, I thought it was some very large lorries passing on the road nearby", Mpata sits on a recently built road that connects Karonga to a Uranium mine that is being dug for yellow-cake by the Paladin mining company, "but then it continued for a number of minutes. I was in my house, it started to shake so I went outside. I have not slept in my house since that day." She shows me around her house, which is still standing, but has dramatic cracks up the walls, and the structure of the roof is warped.

Kenja is one of the luckier ones in the village, her house was made of bricks, while many of the people had constructed theirs from daub and mud. I noticed not many of those houses were still standing, as I walked around the village.

Kilama is another one who's house was damaged, but is still standing. "My house is damaged, I don't have the means to repair it, so I still sleep here", she tells me (in chingonde), "there was some aid that came, maize and tents mainly, but the tents were bad quality and have already disintegrated."

As many of the villagers are either homeless or say it's too dangerous to sleep in their damaged houses, they have constructed a series of temporary homes, slung together with sticks, straw and black plastic. These look basic, but fine for the dry season, however my fear is when the rainy season arrives later this year many more people will become ill as their temporary accommodation becomes damp, and the mosquitoes begin to breed.

Have you seen any of the aftermath of the earthquake in Karonga? Please share your experiences below.

5 things you need to know how to say in Chewa (the official language of Malawi)!

Malawi is a country made up of many different tribes, all of whom have slightly different languages. The differences aree most pronounced as you travel from North to South - as you go from Nkonde in the very north, to Tumbuka in the North, to Tonga on the lake shore around Nkhata Bay and Sambani Lodge, and then Chewa as you go further South.


The good news is, the national language of Malawi is Chewa, and it is taught in all schools from an early age - as is English from secondary school. Bearing that in mind, you can no doubt get away with speaking English, but if you want to really impress, here are my top 5 things you need to know how to say in Chewa!


1. Greetings

The greeting is the cornerstone of Malawi culture - nothing happens without a long drawn out greeting ritual - so it's important you can play your part. Perhaps you can find a willing volunteer to enter into a roleplay with you.

Moni (mo-ni): Hello?
Muli bwanji: How are you?
  - Ndiri bwino, kaya inu (nee-li bwi-noo, kaya ee-noo): I am fine, and you?
Ndiri bwanji: I am fine
  - Zikomo (zee-ko-mo): Thank you
Zikomo: Thank you

There are different versions of this greeting across malawi, but you can instigate this, or respond as appropriate. Often you may have to repeat this several times - to the delight of your hosts or nearby Malawians!

2. I'm not from around here...
Mumalankhula chizungu: Do you speak English?
Sindimalankhula chichewa: I don't speak Chewa
Sindimvetsa: I don't understand

3. Medical care

Mundithandize!: Help me! 
Ndikudwala: I am ill
Chipatala: Hospital
Ndikufuna dokotala: I need a doctor

4. How much...?

Ndi ndalama zingati ichi?: How much is this?

5. Goodbye

Yendani Bwino (yen-dar-ni bwee-no): Travel safely

So those are my top 5 things to know how to say in Chewa (the official language of Malawi). For more phrases, and the conjugation of some common verbs, why not download the Malawi phrasebook - a snip at £3, just pay with PayPal!

What are you top phrases a traveller would need in Malawi? Just use the comments section below, I'd love to hear your thoughts!

Top 12 unmissable places to visit in Malawi

I'm often asked what things are not to be missed by friends travelling to Malawi, so I've pulled all my tips together into a single post.


Here are my top 12 unmissable places to visit in Malawi.


1. Mount Mulanje

Mount Mulanje is Malawi's highest peak. Situated in the Southern region above the town of Mulanje, climbing/hiking tours can be arranged, which generally take several days, camping overnight on the mountain. Mulanje offers a breath-taking tropical climb.

2. Lake of Stars festival, Salima

OK, so not a place but an event - and not one you want to miss! Lake of Stars is an institution in Malawi, started a number of years ago, it brings together global and local musicians for a 3 day festival of music and partying. It generally takes place one weekend in October - for more details, visit the Lake of Stars website.

3. Lake Malawi Steamer - the Ilala

The only way to see Lake Malawi - the Ilala steams up and down the west coast of Lake Malawi from Monkey Bay, to Likoma Island, Nkhata Bay and all the way to Chilumba. There are only 5 cabins, but what better way to kick back and relax on a cruise up or down Lake Malawi. Recommended!

4. Nkhotakota pottery, Nkhotakota

Malawi actually has quite an impressive pottery industry, both for local people and travellers' souvenirs and one of the most famous lies in the town of Nkhotakota, on the central/northern lakeshore road. Tied to a hotel, Nkhotakota offers pottery breaks where you can see them at work, paint your own or just buy some of their fabulous products. The do all sorts of crockery, bowls, plates, salt and pepper shakers, as well as tiles and other custom items. Brilliant!

5. Sambani Lodge, Chintetche

Sambani Lodge is a small hotel situated on a beautiful, white sandy beach on the shore of Lake Malawi. Nestled in mango trees, several kilometres from the main lakeshore road that runs from Nkhata Bay to Salima, Sambani Lodge offers good quality accommodation at a decent price. The water is also Bilharzia free, so swimming is compulsory (a huge relief in the heat of the day!). There are also all sorts of activities to occupy you, and if there aren't enough of you for a volleyball team, some locals will be sure to help you out!

6. Kasungu National Park

Kusungu National Park takes up much of the central west part of Malawi, bordering Zambia, and is a huge, mainly wooded park containing buffalo, hippos, leopards and lots of fabulous birdlife. Visiting this park off-season is not recommended as the tree cover means animals are hard to spot and there are lots of waterholes to choose from.

7. Livingstonia

Cut off from the rest of Malawi by a single road, and often inaccesible during and just after heavy rains, Livingstonia should be a separate country of its own. Named after David Livingstone, it sits atop the rift valley plateau, perched on the edge of the escarpment that drops away over 1,000 feet to Lake Malawi below. People and guesthouses are few and far between but for me nothing can detract from this beautiful wilderness.

8. Likoma Island

Perched in the middle of Lake Malawi, Likoma island is accessible by plane (as it has a small airstrip) or by steamer boat from Nkhata Bay. It is a beautiful island, with around 9,000 inhabitants, and randomly a cathedral in the centre! There are guesthouses available for visitors, but booking in advance is recommended.

9. Karonga Museum (it's all about the Dinosaurs!)

This museum is as incongurous as it sounds. Situated on the outskirts of Karonga township, and boasting an amazing full 'Malawisaurus' skeleton (yes that's its name...really!) found nearby, this museum with make you chuckle as much as inform you of the mythical history and local traditions of the area. Worth a visit if you are passing through!

10. Vwaza Marsh National Park

Vwaza Marsh doesn't sound like the nicest place to go, but it is one of the best, and most reliable parks to visit in Malawi. The accommodation is situated around the main marsh/lake with chalets and space for camping. Animals you'll see are elephants, crocodiles, hippos, buffalo, wildebeast. If you go, make sure you sign up for their night safari and walking safaris - you'll be astonished by what you see.

11. Lake Malawi National Park

Claiming to be the world's first freshwater national park, Lake Malawi National Park, in the southern region of Malawi, covers a mere 9,000 hectares, but in spite of its small size it is packed with huge concentrations of Malawi's diverse bird life, as well as hundreds of different species of fish. Lake Malawi has the largest number of species of ciclid of any freshwater lake in the world!

12. Nkhata Bay

Nkhata bay is the place to hang out if you're on an overland tour, or want to do activities in Malawi. The large, pebbly beach is surrounded by guesthouses and lodges, all offering various watersports and other activities. A short way away (on the road to Chitetche) there is a huge roadside carving market, where carvers of all types of soivenirs (traditional and modern) hang out waiting for passing cars and customers. The good news is they are all negotiable!

So, those are my top unmissable places to see in Malawi - have I missed any that you would add? I'd love to hear your thoughts!

Guest Blog: My first taste of Malawi by Emma Langley

Nick: I'd like to introduce a friend who has very kindly agreed to share her experiences of travelling in Malawi as a young, single female traveller. Huge thanks to Emma Langley for this post:

My first taste of Malawian hospitality came before I’d even got outside Lilongwe airport.

I’d bonded with two strangers on the aeroplane over our two particularly tremulous flights from London: two brothers, Paulo and Emilio, then living in London on their way home to Malawi. I was supposed to be staying in guesthouse in Lilongwe before my friends arrived but the brothers had a better suggestion: “Don’t stay in the capital by yourself, stay with our family in Blantyre”. I can’t do that. My British sense of politeness said it would be imposing and awkward, and the single female traveller in me said you’ve known these guys for less than 24 hours. But the adventurer won out. It was a judgement call, the kind you don’t tell your mother about.

They were met at the airport by Manuel, another brother, a family friend and Paulo’s 10-year-old son. I had no idea how many ‘main’ towns there were – or weren’t - in Malawi. So when they said they Blantyre was just the next town down, the fact I was in a different country, no clue specifically as to where in relation to anywhere else, no means of communication, with complete strangers, seemed marginally less angst-inducing. Five hours in the back of the truck with a backside that had disowned me later, we arrived at their sister Clara’s house in Blantyre.

Blantyre is not five hours from Lilongwe – it was more like 2-2.5 hours on the return trip. But we stopped at every single small settlement or roadside gathering on route so the brothers could buy food, exchange clothes/cigarettes from the UK, catch up with friends. It was a five hour story with a plot as bumpy as the potholes and as characters as colourful as the roadside fabrics: I heard the life story of the man selling giant mushrooms on the side of the road, the business problems of their ex-primary school teacher’s wife, and the agricultural history of the fruits we purchased from children at a market. Of course, a random white girl in the back of a truck with 3 non-Malawian looking Malawians and a child attracted just a little bit of attention: I had come to Malawi as a tourist but was fast realising that I was becoming a tourist attraction. I figured out the meaning of “Musungo Musungo!” without the help of a translator. We drank beer watching the sun go down over the vast expanse of Mozambique to the right of the road and, as the brothers starting reminiscing about their childhood, I almost expected to pitch up with a campfire for the night.

None of the brothers or their 8 elder siblings were born in Malawi, they arrived here as refugees when Paulo, the youngest, was a baby. The 15 year civil war from 1975 -94 in Mozambique led a million and a half people to flee to neighbouring countries. Their father was a Portuguese farmer, their mother the daughter of Mozambican famer, Mozambique being an ex-Portuguese colony and trading port. Like many similar families in the very southern regions of Malawi, Clara’s household speak Portuguese as a joint first language with Chechwa, and some English. And when I say household, I’m talking six children, four adults and grandmother. It took me three days to figure out whose children belonged to whom: amongst their family and friends children seemed to be very communal. By Malawian standards, the family are relatively well-off, mostly through Clara’s marriage to a South African building developer. It took me a while to get my head around the idea that a nanny, a cook, a cleaner and a house guard constituted a normal lifestyle for anyone outside of aristocracy; to Clara’s circle of friends and family, hired help is entirely normal.

In between playing with six children and watching Nigerian soap operas, the family took me around Blantyre, Malawi’s commercial centre and second largest town. We explored Limbe, took in the awesome views across the Shire River and bank-side farms, and went clubbing – the least likely activity I thought I’d be doing in Malawi. Clara lent me a dress on account of the fact that very item of clothing in my rucksack screamed scummy backpacker. But I think the highlight for me was the party in an Iranian friend’s house, to celebrate the birthday of one of their Indian friends. If it wasn’t for grandmother busting her Mozambican dance moves until the early hours, you could have been forgiven for thinking you’d arrived at a United Nations conference.

It’s rare that over-used clichés are well-employed, let alone deserved, but I was starting to glean something about this so-called warm heart of Africa: I was taken in by complete strangers and they made me part of their family. The brothers delivered me safely back to Lilongwe and it was not the last I saw or heard from them – I’m going back to visit the family in October. This experience was the first of many encounters with friendly Malawians and I’m genuinely humbled by how I’ve experienced hospitality in a place so vastly different from home.

Nick: What was your first visit to Malawi like - we'd love to hear you experiences too!