Malawi is a country made up of many different tribes, all of whom have slightly different languages. The differences aree most pronounced as you travel from North to South - as you go from Nkonde in the very north, to Tumbuka in the North, to Tonga on the lake shore around Nkhata Bay and Sambani Lodge, and then Chewa as you go further South.
The good news is, the national language of Malawi is Chewa, and it is taught in all schools from an early age - as is English from secondary school. Bearing that in mind, you can no doubt get away with speaking English, but if you want to really impress, here are my top 5 things you need to know how to say in Chewa!
1. Greetings
The greeting is the cornerstone of Malawi culture - nothing happens without a long drawn out greeting ritual - so it's important you can play your part. Perhaps you can find a willing volunteer to enter into a roleplay with you.
Moni (mo-ni): Hello?
Muli bwanji: How are you?
- Ndiri bwino, kaya inu (nee-li bwi-noo, kaya ee-noo): I am fine, and you?
Ndiri bwanji: I am fine
- Zikomo (zee-ko-mo): Thank you
Zikomo: Thank you
There are different versions of this greeting across malawi, but you can instigate this, or respond as appropriate. Often you may have to repeat this several times - to the delight of your hosts or nearby Malawians!
2. I'm not from around here...
Mumalankhula chizungu: Do you speak English?
Sindimalankhula chichewa: I don't speak Chewa
Sindimvetsa: I don't understand
3. Medical care
Mundithandize!: Help me!
Ndikudwala: I am ill
Chipatala: Hospital
Ndikufuna dokotala: I need a doctor
4. How much...?
Ndi ndalama zingati ichi?: How much is this?
5. Goodbye
Yendani Bwino (yen-dar-ni bwee-no): Travel safely
So those are my top 5 things to know how to say in Chewa (the official language of Malawi). For more phrases, and the conjugation of some common verbs, why not download the Malawi phrasebook - a snip at £3, just pay with PayPal!
What are you top phrases a traveller would need in Malawi? Just use the comments section below, I'd love to hear your thoughts!
Saturday, 9 October 2010
Tuesday, 28 September 2010
Top 12 unmissable places to visit in Malawi
I'm often asked what things are not to be missed by friends travelling to Malawi, so I've pulled all my tips together into a single post.
Here are my top 12 unmissable places to visit in Malawi.
1. Mount Mulanje
Mount Mulanje is Malawi's highest peak. Situated in the Southern region above the town of Mulanje, climbing/hiking tours can be arranged, which generally take several days, camping overnight on the mountain. Mulanje offers a breath-taking tropical climb.
2. Lake of Stars festival, Salima
OK, so not a place but an event - and not one you want to miss! Lake of Stars is an institution in Malawi, started a number of years ago, it brings together global and local musicians for a 3 day festival of music and partying. It generally takes place one weekend in October - for more details, visit the Lake of Stars website.
3. Lake Malawi Steamer - the Ilala
The only way to see Lake Malawi - the Ilala steams up and down the west coast of Lake Malawi from Monkey Bay, to Likoma Island, Nkhata Bay and all the way to Chilumba. There are only 5 cabins, but what better way to kick back and relax on a cruise up or down Lake Malawi. Recommended!
4. Nkhotakota pottery, Nkhotakota
Malawi actually has quite an impressive pottery industry, both for local people and travellers' souvenirs and one of the most famous lies in the town of Nkhotakota, on the central/northern lakeshore road. Tied to a hotel, Nkhotakota offers pottery breaks where you can see them at work, paint your own or just buy some of their fabulous products. The do all sorts of crockery, bowls, plates, salt and pepper shakers, as well as tiles and other custom items. Brilliant!
5. Sambani Lodge, Chintetche
Sambani Lodge is a small hotel situated on a beautiful, white sandy beach on the shore of Lake Malawi. Nestled in mango trees, several kilometres from the main lakeshore road that runs from Nkhata Bay to Salima, Sambani Lodge offers good quality accommodation at a decent price. The water is also Bilharzia free, so swimming is compulsory (a huge relief in the heat of the day!). There are also all sorts of activities to occupy you, and if there aren't enough of you for a volleyball team, some locals will be sure to help you out!
6. Kasungu National Park
Kusungu National Park takes up much of the central west part of Malawi, bordering Zambia, and is a huge, mainly wooded park containing buffalo, hippos, leopards and lots of fabulous birdlife. Visiting this park off-season is not recommended as the tree cover means animals are hard to spot and there are lots of waterholes to choose from.
7. Livingstonia
Cut off from the rest of Malawi by a single road, and often inaccesible during and just after heavy rains, Livingstonia should be a separate country of its own. Named after David Livingstone, it sits atop the rift valley plateau, perched on the edge of the escarpment that drops away over 1,000 feet to Lake Malawi below. People and guesthouses are few and far between but for me nothing can detract from this beautiful wilderness.
8. Likoma Island
Perched in the middle of Lake Malawi, Likoma island is accessible by plane (as it has a small airstrip) or by steamer boat from Nkhata Bay. It is a beautiful island, with around 9,000 inhabitants, and randomly a cathedral in the centre! There are guesthouses available for visitors, but booking in advance is recommended.
9. Karonga Museum (it's all about the Dinosaurs!)
This museum is as incongurous as it sounds. Situated on the outskirts of Karonga township, and boasting an amazing full 'Malawisaurus' skeleton (yes that's its name...really!) found nearby, this museum with make you chuckle as much as inform you of the mythical history and local traditions of the area. Worth a visit if you are passing through!
10. Vwaza Marsh National Park
Vwaza Marsh doesn't sound like the nicest place to go, but it is one of the best, and most reliable parks to visit in Malawi. The accommodation is situated around the main marsh/lake with chalets and space for camping. Animals you'll see are elephants, crocodiles, hippos, buffalo, wildebeast. If you go, make sure you sign up for their night safari and walking safaris - you'll be astonished by what you see.
11. Lake Malawi National Park
Claiming to be the world's first freshwater national park, Lake Malawi National Park, in the southern region of Malawi, covers a mere 9,000 hectares, but in spite of its small size it is packed with huge concentrations of Malawi's diverse bird life, as well as hundreds of different species of fish. Lake Malawi has the largest number of species of ciclid of any freshwater lake in the world!
12. Nkhata Bay
Nkhata bay is the place to hang out if you're on an overland tour, or want to do activities in Malawi. The large, pebbly beach is surrounded by guesthouses and lodges, all offering various watersports and other activities. A short way away (on the road to Chitetche) there is a huge roadside carving market, where carvers of all types of soivenirs (traditional and modern) hang out waiting for passing cars and customers. The good news is they are all negotiable!
So, those are my top unmissable places to see in Malawi - have I missed any that you would add? I'd love to hear your thoughts!
Here are my top 12 unmissable places to visit in Malawi.
1. Mount Mulanje
Mount Mulanje is Malawi's highest peak. Situated in the Southern region above the town of Mulanje, climbing/hiking tours can be arranged, which generally take several days, camping overnight on the mountain. Mulanje offers a breath-taking tropical climb.
2. Lake of Stars festival, Salima
OK, so not a place but an event - and not one you want to miss! Lake of Stars is an institution in Malawi, started a number of years ago, it brings together global and local musicians for a 3 day festival of music and partying. It generally takes place one weekend in October - for more details, visit the Lake of Stars website.
3. Lake Malawi Steamer - the Ilala
The only way to see Lake Malawi - the Ilala steams up and down the west coast of Lake Malawi from Monkey Bay, to Likoma Island, Nkhata Bay and all the way to Chilumba. There are only 5 cabins, but what better way to kick back and relax on a cruise up or down Lake Malawi. Recommended!
4. Nkhotakota pottery, Nkhotakota
Malawi actually has quite an impressive pottery industry, both for local people and travellers' souvenirs and one of the most famous lies in the town of Nkhotakota, on the central/northern lakeshore road. Tied to a hotel, Nkhotakota offers pottery breaks where you can see them at work, paint your own or just buy some of their fabulous products. The do all sorts of crockery, bowls, plates, salt and pepper shakers, as well as tiles and other custom items. Brilliant!
5. Sambani Lodge, Chintetche
Sambani Lodge is a small hotel situated on a beautiful, white sandy beach on the shore of Lake Malawi. Nestled in mango trees, several kilometres from the main lakeshore road that runs from Nkhata Bay to Salima, Sambani Lodge offers good quality accommodation at a decent price. The water is also Bilharzia free, so swimming is compulsory (a huge relief in the heat of the day!). There are also all sorts of activities to occupy you, and if there aren't enough of you for a volleyball team, some locals will be sure to help you out!
6. Kasungu National Park
Kusungu National Park takes up much of the central west part of Malawi, bordering Zambia, and is a huge, mainly wooded park containing buffalo, hippos, leopards and lots of fabulous birdlife. Visiting this park off-season is not recommended as the tree cover means animals are hard to spot and there are lots of waterholes to choose from.
7. Livingstonia
Cut off from the rest of Malawi by a single road, and often inaccesible during and just after heavy rains, Livingstonia should be a separate country of its own. Named after David Livingstone, it sits atop the rift valley plateau, perched on the edge of the escarpment that drops away over 1,000 feet to Lake Malawi below. People and guesthouses are few and far between but for me nothing can detract from this beautiful wilderness.
8. Likoma Island
Perched in the middle of Lake Malawi, Likoma island is accessible by plane (as it has a small airstrip) or by steamer boat from Nkhata Bay. It is a beautiful island, with around 9,000 inhabitants, and randomly a cathedral in the centre! There are guesthouses available for visitors, but booking in advance is recommended.
9. Karonga Museum (it's all about the Dinosaurs!)
This museum is as incongurous as it sounds. Situated on the outskirts of Karonga township, and boasting an amazing full 'Malawisaurus' skeleton (yes that's its name...really!) found nearby, this museum with make you chuckle as much as inform you of the mythical history and local traditions of the area. Worth a visit if you are passing through!
10. Vwaza Marsh National Park
Vwaza Marsh doesn't sound like the nicest place to go, but it is one of the best, and most reliable parks to visit in Malawi. The accommodation is situated around the main marsh/lake with chalets and space for camping. Animals you'll see are elephants, crocodiles, hippos, buffalo, wildebeast. If you go, make sure you sign up for their night safari and walking safaris - you'll be astonished by what you see.
11. Lake Malawi National Park
Claiming to be the world's first freshwater national park, Lake Malawi National Park, in the southern region of Malawi, covers a mere 9,000 hectares, but in spite of its small size it is packed with huge concentrations of Malawi's diverse bird life, as well as hundreds of different species of fish. Lake Malawi has the largest number of species of ciclid of any freshwater lake in the world!
12. Nkhata Bay
Nkhata bay is the place to hang out if you're on an overland tour, or want to do activities in Malawi. The large, pebbly beach is surrounded by guesthouses and lodges, all offering various watersports and other activities. A short way away (on the road to Chitetche) there is a huge roadside carving market, where carvers of all types of soivenirs (traditional and modern) hang out waiting for passing cars and customers. The good news is they are all negotiable!
So, those are my top unmissable places to see in Malawi - have I missed any that you would add? I'd love to hear your thoughts!
Saturday, 4 September 2010
Guest Blog: My first taste of Malawi by Emma Langley
Nick: I'd like to introduce a friend who has very kindly agreed to share her experiences of travelling in Malawi as a young, single female traveller. Huge thanks to Emma Langley for this post:
My first taste of Malawian hospitality came before I’d even got outside Lilongwe airport.
I’d bonded with two strangers on the aeroplane over our two particularly tremulous flights from London: two brothers, Paulo and Emilio, then living in London on their way home to Malawi. I was supposed to be staying in guesthouse in Lilongwe before my friends arrived but the brothers had a better suggestion: “Don’t stay in the capital by yourself, stay with our family in Blantyre”. I can’t do that. My British sense of politeness said it would be imposing and awkward, and the single female traveller in me said you’ve known these guys for less than 24 hours. But the adventurer won out. It was a judgement call, the kind you don’t tell your mother about.
They were met at the airport by Manuel, another brother, a family friend and Paulo’s 10-year-old son. I had no idea how many ‘main’ towns there were – or weren’t - in Malawi. So when they said they Blantyre was just the next town down, the fact I was in a different country, no clue specifically as to where in relation to anywhere else, no means of communication, with complete strangers, seemed marginally less angst-inducing. Five hours in the back of the truck with a backside that had disowned me later, we arrived at their sister Clara’s house in Blantyre.
Blantyre is not five hours from Lilongwe – it was more like 2-2.5 hours on the return trip. But we stopped at every single small settlement or roadside gathering on route so the brothers could buy food, exchange clothes/cigarettes from the UK, catch up with friends. It was a five hour story with a plot as bumpy as the potholes and as characters as colourful as the roadside fabrics: I heard the life story of the man selling giant mushrooms on the side of the road, the business problems of their ex-primary school teacher’s wife, and the agricultural history of the fruits we purchased from children at a market. Of course, a random white girl in the back of a truck with 3 non-Malawian looking Malawians and a child attracted just a little bit of attention: I had come to Malawi as a tourist but was fast realising that I was becoming a tourist attraction. I figured out the meaning of “Musungo Musungo!” without the help of a translator. We drank beer watching the sun go down over the vast expanse of Mozambique to the right of the road and, as the brothers starting reminiscing about their childhood, I almost expected to pitch up with a campfire for the night.
None of the brothers or their 8 elder siblings were born in Malawi, they arrived here as refugees when Paulo, the youngest, was a baby. The 15 year civil war from 1975 -94 in Mozambique led a million and a half people to flee to neighbouring countries. Their father was a Portuguese farmer, their mother the daughter of Mozambican famer, Mozambique being an ex-Portuguese colony and trading port. Like many similar families in the very southern regions of Malawi, Clara’s household speak Portuguese as a joint first language with Chechwa, and some English. And when I say household, I’m talking six children, four adults and grandmother. It took me three days to figure out whose children belonged to whom: amongst their family and friends children seemed to be very communal. By Malawian standards, the family are relatively well-off, mostly through Clara’s marriage to a South African building developer. It took me a while to get my head around the idea that a nanny, a cook, a cleaner and a house guard constituted a normal lifestyle for anyone outside of aristocracy; to Clara’s circle of friends and family, hired help is entirely normal.
In between playing with six children and watching Nigerian soap operas, the family took me around Blantyre, Malawi’s commercial centre and second largest town. We explored Limbe, took in the awesome views across the Shire River and bank-side farms, and went clubbing – the least likely activity I thought I’d be doing in Malawi. Clara lent me a dress on account of the fact that very item of clothing in my rucksack screamed scummy backpacker. But I think the highlight for me was the party in an Iranian friend’s house, to celebrate the birthday of one of their Indian friends. If it wasn’t for grandmother busting her Mozambican dance moves until the early hours, you could have been forgiven for thinking you’d arrived at a United Nations conference.
It’s rare that over-used clichés are well-employed, let alone deserved, but I was starting to glean something about this so-called warm heart of Africa: I was taken in by complete strangers and they made me part of their family. The brothers delivered me safely back to Lilongwe and it was not the last I saw or heard from them – I’m going back to visit the family in October. This experience was the first of many encounters with friendly Malawians and I’m genuinely humbled by how I’ve experienced hospitality in a place so vastly different from home.
Nick: What was your first visit to Malawi like - we'd love to hear you experiences too!
My first taste of Malawian hospitality came before I’d even got outside Lilongwe airport.
I’d bonded with two strangers on the aeroplane over our two particularly tremulous flights from London: two brothers, Paulo and Emilio, then living in London on their way home to Malawi. I was supposed to be staying in guesthouse in Lilongwe before my friends arrived but the brothers had a better suggestion: “Don’t stay in the capital by yourself, stay with our family in Blantyre”. I can’t do that. My British sense of politeness said it would be imposing and awkward, and the single female traveller in me said you’ve known these guys for less than 24 hours. But the adventurer won out. It was a judgement call, the kind you don’t tell your mother about.
They were met at the airport by Manuel, another brother, a family friend and Paulo’s 10-year-old son. I had no idea how many ‘main’ towns there were – or weren’t - in Malawi. So when they said they Blantyre was just the next town down, the fact I was in a different country, no clue specifically as to where in relation to anywhere else, no means of communication, with complete strangers, seemed marginally less angst-inducing. Five hours in the back of the truck with a backside that had disowned me later, we arrived at their sister Clara’s house in Blantyre.
Blantyre is not five hours from Lilongwe – it was more like 2-2.5 hours on the return trip. But we stopped at every single small settlement or roadside gathering on route so the brothers could buy food, exchange clothes/cigarettes from the UK, catch up with friends. It was a five hour story with a plot as bumpy as the potholes and as characters as colourful as the roadside fabrics: I heard the life story of the man selling giant mushrooms on the side of the road, the business problems of their ex-primary school teacher’s wife, and the agricultural history of the fruits we purchased from children at a market. Of course, a random white girl in the back of a truck with 3 non-Malawian looking Malawians and a child attracted just a little bit of attention: I had come to Malawi as a tourist but was fast realising that I was becoming a tourist attraction. I figured out the meaning of “Musungo Musungo!” without the help of a translator. We drank beer watching the sun go down over the vast expanse of Mozambique to the right of the road and, as the brothers starting reminiscing about their childhood, I almost expected to pitch up with a campfire for the night.
None of the brothers or their 8 elder siblings were born in Malawi, they arrived here as refugees when Paulo, the youngest, was a baby. The 15 year civil war from 1975 -94 in Mozambique led a million and a half people to flee to neighbouring countries. Their father was a Portuguese farmer, their mother the daughter of Mozambican famer, Mozambique being an ex-Portuguese colony and trading port. Like many similar families in the very southern regions of Malawi, Clara’s household speak Portuguese as a joint first language with Chechwa, and some English. And when I say household, I’m talking six children, four adults and grandmother. It took me three days to figure out whose children belonged to whom: amongst their family and friends children seemed to be very communal. By Malawian standards, the family are relatively well-off, mostly through Clara’s marriage to a South African building developer. It took me a while to get my head around the idea that a nanny, a cook, a cleaner and a house guard constituted a normal lifestyle for anyone outside of aristocracy; to Clara’s circle of friends and family, hired help is entirely normal.
In between playing with six children and watching Nigerian soap operas, the family took me around Blantyre, Malawi’s commercial centre and second largest town. We explored Limbe, took in the awesome views across the Shire River and bank-side farms, and went clubbing – the least likely activity I thought I’d be doing in Malawi. Clara lent me a dress on account of the fact that very item of clothing in my rucksack screamed scummy backpacker. But I think the highlight for me was the party in an Iranian friend’s house, to celebrate the birthday of one of their Indian friends. If it wasn’t for grandmother busting her Mozambican dance moves until the early hours, you could have been forgiven for thinking you’d arrived at a United Nations conference.
It’s rare that over-used clichés are well-employed, let alone deserved, but I was starting to glean something about this so-called warm heart of Africa: I was taken in by complete strangers and they made me part of their family. The brothers delivered me safely back to Lilongwe and it was not the last I saw or heard from them – I’m going back to visit the family in October. This experience was the first of many encounters with friendly Malawians and I’m genuinely humbled by how I’ve experienced hospitality in a place so vastly different from home.
Nick: What was your first visit to Malawi like - we'd love to hear you experiences too!
Monday, 16 August 2010
Top 10 items you need to pack for a trip to Malawi
So, you have your trip booked, great - and you've weighed up the different flight providers, excellent - but what are you going to pack in your 23kg (46kg if you're flying Ethiopian) of luggage space?
I've compiled a list of 'must have' luggage items for your trip to Malawi, whether you are just staying in Lilongwe, or travelling up to the Northern region (and Sambani Lodge!) Or even into Tanzania or Mozambique - here are my top 10 tips for things not to forget:
1. Anti-malarials
Definitely don't forget these. Malawi does have the female mosquitos that carry Malaria, and although prevention is better than cure, if you are bitten you'll be glad you have them. Read my previous article on the anti-malarial drugs available in the UK.
2. Long-sleeved clothing
This ties in with the prevention rather than cure philosophy. Mosquitos are most active at dawn and at dusk, so for these key times, make sure wrists and ankles are properly covered. Mosquitos love these areas of the body, as the blood vessels are close to the surface, and the skin is thin. You could go for socks and gloves as well, but that might be going over the top!
3. Bug spray!
This is turning into a medical post, don't worry, there are non-bug related things to pack! An excellent spray for warding off creepy crawlies will have a high concentration of Deet in it. Make sure you take enough, as there's nothing worse than running out in the middle of nowhere.
4. Old clothes
Sounds silly, right? You don't want to bring old clothes as they'll take up loads of room and you want to wear new stuff on your trip, right? Wrong! Bring a load of old clothes, especially stuff that you don't mind leaving in Malawi; that way when you are travelling you can use your old stuff, which you won't mind getting dirty, and wear your new stuff once you arrive at your destination. The added bonus is Malawians will often take payment for souvenirs in old clothing (or just donations!) so you know your old garments are going towards a good cause.
5. Cheap digital watch
One of the best purchases I've ever made for travelling to Africa is a cheap digital watch. They're really reliable, they don't stand out to thieves as they are quite prolific in Malawi, and you won't mind if it breaks or gets lost, as you only paid a few pounds for it. Just remember the appointments/buses/people in Malawi run on GMT (General Malawi Time) so give everything you do a few hours flexibility.
6. Everything to do with the sun
Sunhat, sunglasses, sun cream etc. Malawi can get hot. Damn hot! Sitting in the tropics, Malawi has pretty consistently hot weather, from north to south. Half the country sits at the top of the rift valley at an altitude of over 1000ft above sea level and common temperatures are 26-33 degrees celsius. If you head down to the lake, whether it be Sambani Lodge in Chintheche or up to Karonga, temperatures push 40 at some times during the year, so make sure you take the usual stuff to protect you from the rays.
7. Camera equipment and a battery charger
It almost goes without saying that you should take your camera, batteries and a charger to Malawi when you go. I just wanted to emphasize a couple of points here. Firstly, Malawi is an AMAZING place to take photographs, I have never taken so many good, high-saturation, colourful photos as I have in Malawi. Secondly, because of the hot humid conditions, your batteries will run out quicker than usual, and there is nothing worse than framing the perfect shot, only to realise you are out of juice!
8. A good library of books
The idea of timekeeping is incredibly loose in Malawi, and, as mentioned earlier, the Malawian attitude to time can be summed up as GMT (general malawi time). As this is the case, if you are doing any travelling around in Malawi, you should be prepared to spend long periods waiting for people or activity. The remedy for this is, of course, ensuring you have the latest version of the lonely planet, or some other weighty tome, to keep you occupied. And of course you can always leave your novel with a friendly (and appreciative) Malawian once you're done.
9. Our Chewa phrasebook
Ok, so I had to get a plug in somewhere! Serioisly though, while most Malawians can speak small amounts of faltering English (and you'll get loads of kids shouting 'how are you' at you), I'd thoroughly recommend buying a copy of our phrasebook (a snip at £3) to help you with some of the common words, phrases and verbs in Chewa. It will REALLY make a splash with local Malawians and springboard you to the centre of attention, whether at a bus stop or in the market.
10. Leave some space!
I mention this one through first-hand experience of having to travel with a carved 'elephant' stool in my hand luggage because it wouldn't fit in my hold baggage allowance. Leave some space as you are likely to want to bring some (lots) of items back from Malawi - whether it be ceramic pieces from the two famous potteries - Dedza and Nkhotakota - carvings, paintings, jewellery or any other souvenirs that can be found throughout the country.
Those are my top 10 for now - let me know what you think you'd add to that list, or if you disagree using the comments section below!
I've compiled a list of 'must have' luggage items for your trip to Malawi, whether you are just staying in Lilongwe, or travelling up to the Northern region (and Sambani Lodge!) Or even into Tanzania or Mozambique - here are my top 10 tips for things not to forget:
1. Anti-malarials
Definitely don't forget these. Malawi does have the female mosquitos that carry Malaria, and although prevention is better than cure, if you are bitten you'll be glad you have them. Read my previous article on the anti-malarial drugs available in the UK.
2. Long-sleeved clothing
This ties in with the prevention rather than cure philosophy. Mosquitos are most active at dawn and at dusk, so for these key times, make sure wrists and ankles are properly covered. Mosquitos love these areas of the body, as the blood vessels are close to the surface, and the skin is thin. You could go for socks and gloves as well, but that might be going over the top!
3. Bug spray!
This is turning into a medical post, don't worry, there are non-bug related things to pack! An excellent spray for warding off creepy crawlies will have a high concentration of Deet in it. Make sure you take enough, as there's nothing worse than running out in the middle of nowhere.
4. Old clothes
Sounds silly, right? You don't want to bring old clothes as they'll take up loads of room and you want to wear new stuff on your trip, right? Wrong! Bring a load of old clothes, especially stuff that you don't mind leaving in Malawi; that way when you are travelling you can use your old stuff, which you won't mind getting dirty, and wear your new stuff once you arrive at your destination. The added bonus is Malawians will often take payment for souvenirs in old clothing (or just donations!) so you know your old garments are going towards a good cause.
5. Cheap digital watch
One of the best purchases I've ever made for travelling to Africa is a cheap digital watch. They're really reliable, they don't stand out to thieves as they are quite prolific in Malawi, and you won't mind if it breaks or gets lost, as you only paid a few pounds for it. Just remember the appointments/buses/people in Malawi run on GMT (General Malawi Time) so give everything you do a few hours flexibility.
6. Everything to do with the sun
Sunhat, sunglasses, sun cream etc. Malawi can get hot. Damn hot! Sitting in the tropics, Malawi has pretty consistently hot weather, from north to south. Half the country sits at the top of the rift valley at an altitude of over 1000ft above sea level and common temperatures are 26-33 degrees celsius. If you head down to the lake, whether it be Sambani Lodge in Chintheche or up to Karonga, temperatures push 40 at some times during the year, so make sure you take the usual stuff to protect you from the rays.
7. Camera equipment and a battery charger
It almost goes without saying that you should take your camera, batteries and a charger to Malawi when you go. I just wanted to emphasize a couple of points here. Firstly, Malawi is an AMAZING place to take photographs, I have never taken so many good, high-saturation, colourful photos as I have in Malawi. Secondly, because of the hot humid conditions, your batteries will run out quicker than usual, and there is nothing worse than framing the perfect shot, only to realise you are out of juice!
8. A good library of books
The idea of timekeeping is incredibly loose in Malawi, and, as mentioned earlier, the Malawian attitude to time can be summed up as GMT (general malawi time). As this is the case, if you are doing any travelling around in Malawi, you should be prepared to spend long periods waiting for people or activity. The remedy for this is, of course, ensuring you have the latest version of the lonely planet, or some other weighty tome, to keep you occupied. And of course you can always leave your novel with a friendly (and appreciative) Malawian once you're done.
9. Our Chewa phrasebook
Ok, so I had to get a plug in somewhere! Serioisly though, while most Malawians can speak small amounts of faltering English (and you'll get loads of kids shouting 'how are you' at you), I'd thoroughly recommend buying a copy of our phrasebook (a snip at £3) to help you with some of the common words, phrases and verbs in Chewa. It will REALLY make a splash with local Malawians and springboard you to the centre of attention, whether at a bus stop or in the market.
10. Leave some space!
I mention this one through first-hand experience of having to travel with a carved 'elephant' stool in my hand luggage because it wouldn't fit in my hold baggage allowance. Leave some space as you are likely to want to bring some (lots) of items back from Malawi - whether it be ceramic pieces from the two famous potteries - Dedza and Nkhotakota - carvings, paintings, jewellery or any other souvenirs that can be found throughout the country.
Those are my top 10 for now - let me know what you think you'd add to that list, or if you disagree using the comments section below!
Tuesday, 3 August 2010
What's the cheapest way to fly to Malawi from London?
Malawi as a holiday destination can be pretty cheap once you're there, but what airlines fly to Malawi from London, what's the cheapest way to get there, and what do you trade off with a cheap flight?
Which airlines fly has been a bone of contention for some time as there used to be direct flights to Malawi with British Airways, which were brilliant. However these flights were stopped around 2000, for reasons unknown. I presume it was uneconomical for them to fly and once the profit margin falters on those long haul flights they get descheduled pretty quickly.
So who actually flies to Malawi from London?
At time of writing, the following airlines are offering a route to Malawi:
Which airlines fly has been a bone of contention for some time as there used to be direct flights to Malawi with British Airways, which were brilliant. However these flights were stopped around 2000, for reasons unknown. I presume it was uneconomical for them to fly and once the profit margin falters on those long haul flights they get descheduled pretty quickly.
So who actually flies to Malawi from London?
At time of writing, the following airlines are offering a route to Malawi:
- Air France
- KLM
- South African Airlines
- Virgin Atlantic
- Ethiopian Airlines
What routes do these airlines take to Malawi from London?
The Air France route to Malawi is part operated by Kenya Airways, and they fly: London Heathrow > Paris > Nairobi > Lilongwe (Malawi capital in the central region of Malawi)
The KLM route from London to Lilongwe is also part operated by Kenya Airways but their route is: London Heathrow > Amsterdam > Nairobi > Lilongwe
South African airlines offers a longer route which goes: London Heathrow > Johannesburg > Lilongwe
The Air France route to Malawi is part operated by Kenya Airways, and they fly: London Heathrow > Paris > Nairobi > Lilongwe (Malawi capital in the central region of Malawi)
The KLM route from London to Lilongwe is also part operated by Kenya Airways but their route is: London Heathrow > Amsterdam > Nairobi > Lilongwe
South African airlines offers a longer route which goes: London Heathrow > Johannesburg > Lilongwe
Virgin Atlantic fly (in partnership with South African): London Heathrow > Johannesburg > Lilongwe
Finally, Ethiopian Airlines operates a route to Malawi via its hub in Ethiopia, and its route is: London Heathrow > Addis Ababa > Lusaka or Lubumbashi (refuel) > Lilongwe
That's all great, but how long do they take to get there, and get back?!
LHR - LLW LLW - LHR
Air France c. 12 hrs c. 15 hrs
KLM c. 12 hrs c. 15 hrs
South African c. 15 hrs c. 18 hrs
Ethiopian c. 14 hrs c. 20 hrs
Finally, Ethiopian Airlines operates a route to Malawi via its hub in Ethiopia, and its route is: London Heathrow > Addis Ababa > Lusaka or Lubumbashi (refuel) > Lilongwe
That's all great, but how long do they take to get there, and get back?!
LHR - LLW LLW - LHR
Air France c. 12 hrs c. 15 hrs
KLM c. 12 hrs c. 15 hrs
South African c. 15 hrs c. 18 hrs
Ethiopian c. 14 hrs c. 20 hrs
Virgin Atlantic c. 14hrs c. 15hrs
So, which airline is the cheapest to travel to Malawi?
Without a doubt, the cheapest airline to fly with is Ethiopian Airlines. They are consistently the lowest cost over the course of the year, and their top prices are not that much higher than their value fares. You can expect to pay between £490 - £700 for a flight
So, which airline is the cheapest to travel to Malawi?
Without a doubt, the cheapest airline to fly with is Ethiopian Airlines. They are consistently the lowest cost over the course of the year, and their top prices are not that much higher than their value fares. You can expect to pay between £490 - £700 for a flight
The other airlines - KLM/Air France/South African depend on when you book and when you travel, but cost around £600 - £900.
The most expensive is Virgin Atlantic - a flight with them will cost around £1000+
Finally, which is the best airline to fly with?
Well, in this humble blog author's opinion, South African is the best for experience, it's comfortable and the air crew are friendly and experienced (especially if linked with a Virgin Atlantic flight!).
KLM/Air France and good for speed of journey, they get you there quickest, but part of the flight is operated by Kenya Airways, which can be hit and miss, and Nairobi Airport is chaotic.
Finally, which is the best airline to fly with?
Well, in this humble blog author's opinion, South African is the best for experience, it's comfortable and the air crew are friendly and experienced (especially if linked with a Virgin Atlantic flight!).
KLM/Air France and good for speed of journey, they get you there quickest, but part of the flight is operated by Kenya Airways, which can be hit and miss, and Nairobi Airport is chaotic.
Ethiopian really fits the mantra that you get what you pay for in a flight, expect chickens in the aisle, toilet lights that don't work and films that are too long for the flight. However it is cheap and you get 46kg baggage allowance - double what the other airlines offer, so plenty of room to bring back oodles of African carvings...if you're happy to sit on a flight for 20 hours!
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